We heli coiled Jues injector on the Sorento. It's got to be worth a shot but it still leaves what sounds like a ring problen underneath to address.
Gearbox Oil & Differential Oil
- Thread starter Faheem
- Start date
Well if it's a piston/ring issue it's gonna have to come off the road mate. These things come to try us from time to time. Believe me I know!
Does sound like a ring issue as well but as you say it still ran.
Cars can be frustrating and expensive especially classic cars.
Good luck
Cliff.
Cars can be frustrating and expensive especially classic cars.
Good luck
Cliff.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Sounds to me that the loose plug might be the cause of the low compression reading on that cylinder when cold.
Best get the head off and see whats going on in there and getting a helicoil fitted. If no signs of damage swarf in the cylinder put the repaired head on and give it a go.
Best get the head off and see whats going on in there and getting a helicoil fitted. If no signs of damage swarf in the cylinder put the repaired head on and give it a go.
Low compression at cold ( when the car has been standing over night) is on no. 2 Cyl. Plug threads are faulty on no.4 Cyl. My suspicion is the cam follower is losing oil and consequently the valve(s) on no. 2 won't open the valve fully. Before any major strip down I would use put in some Engine oil flush (recommend Forte ) then change the oil and filter and on the refill I would add a tin of Wynns valve lifter concentrate and see how that helps.
Tony
Tony
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
OK low on 2 knackered thread on 4 so not connected with the low compression issue.
t-tony might be onto something with his thinking regarding the valves, engine flush as suggested sounds the way to go but with that plug thread issue its going to be a bugger to run it. Best take the head off and investigate further and have the thread fixed.
t-tony might be onto something with his thinking regarding the valves, engine flush as suggested sounds the way to go but with that plug thread issue its going to be a bugger to run it. Best take the head off and investigate further and have the thread fixed.
Can't I have a helicoil fitted without removing the head?
Removing the head might be easy for some but definitely isn't for me. I'm not that mechanically experienced that I can get the head off the car and back in over the course of a weekend. Bolts and screws would not get put back in the right place and stripping them as they are 20 years old would also be an issue.
As for the helicoil It's just a case of avoiding getting any swarf in the engine, I'm unsure whether an engine flush would help remove any of that swarf but surely if the helicoil is greased before being put in most of the metal filings will stick to the helicoil and not go into the cylinder? Also compressed air prior to the fitting of the new spark plug would also help?
I saw one post on a forum where a chap said that after fitting a helicoil he ran the car for 25 years with no other issues.
The car has just over 70k miles. Coolant loss hasn't been a problem, the car works its way up to temperature and sits dead on in the centre. Once she's warmed up the car drives without missing a beat. Yesterday's journey to Tony's place was a breeze, covered 120 miles and a month ago I went to Leeds and back again which was about 240 miles covered in around 5 hours, again did this without any issues whatsoever.
My point is that if treated right these engines are very reliable and I can tell you with the amount of invoices I have in my folder this car has had a very good life.
For all I know you may be right and it may well be the head, but at the moment I am doubtful
We'll see if Tony's trick works, fingers crossed it does. 
Removing the head might be easy for some but definitely isn't for me. I'm not that mechanically experienced that I can get the head off the car and back in over the course of a weekend. Bolts and screws would not get put back in the right place and stripping them as they are 20 years old would also be an issue.
As for the helicoil It's just a case of avoiding getting any swarf in the engine, I'm unsure whether an engine flush would help remove any of that swarf but surely if the helicoil is greased before being put in most of the metal filings will stick to the helicoil and not go into the cylinder? Also compressed air prior to the fitting of the new spark plug would also help?
I saw one post on a forum where a chap said that after fitting a helicoil he ran the car for 25 years with no other issues.
The car has just over 70k miles. Coolant loss hasn't been a problem, the car works its way up to temperature and sits dead on in the centre. Once she's warmed up the car drives without missing a beat. Yesterday's journey to Tony's place was a breeze, covered 120 miles and a month ago I went to Leeds and back again which was about 240 miles covered in around 5 hours, again did this without any issues whatsoever.
My point is that if treated right these engines are very reliable and I can tell you with the amount of invoices I have in my folder this car has had a very good life.
For all I know you may be right and it may well be the head, but at the moment I am doubtful
We'll see if Tony's trick works, fingers crossed it does. 
I agree @Zeti and with a screwed up plug thread he'll need either to switch heads or recondition this one. Personally I'd take the second head in, if it checks out good fine, if not refurb that one. Then @Faheem can still use the car till that's done and may not need to buy another car if all the parts are ready and he can get them installed. But he must address the ring problem first and may be better off transplanting engines if the spare car is okay. If not used 1.9's are pretty cheap! This would also offer Faheem the chance to rebuild the original engine for the experience and keep his car number matching!! JIM
You need a camera scope with a light to have a look at the bores with out removing the head to see if there is liner damage.
A lifter without oil in my view would cause poor running/ noise. Compression is lost through poor seated valves ,a hydraulic lifter that is not full of oil will not open the valve correctly it has little bearing on its seat just its extention cam to valve.
So a poor lifter would keep a valve shut not open.
In my understanding....
A lifter without oil in my view would cause poor running/ noise. Compression is lost through poor seated valves ,a hydraulic lifter that is not full of oil will not open the valve correctly it has little bearing on its seat just its extention cam to valve.
So a poor lifter would keep a valve shut not open.
In my understanding....
@oldcarman The spare car is fine, but I want to try a couple of things before I make any big decisions.
The plug thread being stripped is entirely my fault, when I installed the plugs originally in Jan 16 (5 months after I got the car) I didn't use the correct tool to tighten them to spec which due to the compression caused it to pop out a couple of months ago (first instance of this happening was in my Urgent Help Needed thread). When it did pop out I think it knackered the threads and that the threads haven't been good since.
In terms of an engine transplant, if that were the problem it's not likely the transplant would happen for several months...
I would have to go with a bigger engine, a six cylinder power plant - preferably a 2.2 or a 2,8.
I'd have to leave all the work to be done by a garage - as I have no space besides from a driveway, also I'm sure the neighbours won't be too keen on me doing a job like that on the drive. If I had a garage and a second car, I would be more than willing to tackle the job myself as there wouldn't be any time restrictions or lack of space.
@Antm72 I do have a bad ticking noise on a cold start, and have heard that sticky lifters are very common on the M44 especially during warm up. Something I read but never took seriously is that low viscosity engine oil has fixed a lot of cold start issues (I don't know why), but when I do the engine oil flush I'll replace the oil with one of low viscosity.
The plug thread being stripped is entirely my fault, when I installed the plugs originally in Jan 16 (5 months after I got the car) I didn't use the correct tool to tighten them to spec which due to the compression caused it to pop out a couple of months ago (first instance of this happening was in my Urgent Help Needed thread). When it did pop out I think it knackered the threads and that the threads haven't been good since.
In terms of an engine transplant, if that were the problem it's not likely the transplant would happen for several months...
I would have to go with a bigger engine, a six cylinder power plant - preferably a 2.2 or a 2,8.
I'd have to leave all the work to be done by a garage - as I have no space besides from a driveway, also I'm sure the neighbours won't be too keen on me doing a job like that on the drive. If I had a garage and a second car, I would be more than willing to tackle the job myself as there wouldn't be any time restrictions or lack of space.
@Antm72 I do have a bad ticking noise on a cold start, and have heard that sticky lifters are very common on the M44 especially during warm up. Something I read but never took seriously is that low viscosity engine oil has fixed a lot of cold start issues (I don't know why), but when I do the engine oil flush I'll replace the oil with one of low viscosity.
Personally @Faheem I can't see your no using a proper tool led to the plug blowing out! I think some hamhanded jerk has cross threaded the plugs a few times to many. Get that engine flush done and possibly your lifters if any are sticking or leaking down it may clear that up. You have nothing to lose but a few £'s! Good luck my friend!! JIM
Can't see it being a ring and bore issue as Faheem has no smoking or breathing problems. I think he posted a video a while ago of his cold start noise? and it seemed like cam follower rattle to me. After he gets the engine warmed up its fine until it is parked and left to stand again. Got to be worth a punt in my view.
Tony.
Tony.
@oldcarman Jim, you've been very kind. Thanks so much for all your help.
Thanks@Faheem but that's what this forum and the people here are about. I share the little I know and others add to it or suggest something else. Then you are at liberty to accept what I've suggested and no hard feelings if you reject it or someone else does. The bottom line is we all want you to have a safe, goodrunning car for the least amount of hassle and hopefully you'll learn something in the process. Good luck with the oil change and flush! JIM
Andrew Buxcey
Dedicated Member
Definately ATF in my 2.8 (manual) There was a tag on the gearbox. Originally I bought the wrong castrol oil. It is still in my garage!
I have just got an email back from Opie oils saying they recommend a ATF ?
Either Redline D 4 or Fuchs ATF 5005? Cheaper alternative would suffice.
ATF in a manual gearbox now iam confused can any help advise please.
My cars a 1.9 1997
Tracy.
Either Redline D 4 or Fuchs ATF 5005? Cheaper alternative would suffice.
ATF in a manual gearbox now iam confused can any help advise please.
My cars a 1.9 1997
Tracy.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Owners manual probably only shows Fill for life fluid so it doesn't show any specs.
There would have been a paper label on the right hand side of the gearbox stating what it was filled with, yellow label would be ATF.
No label left on my 1.9 of 1999 but ATF was confirmed when I drained the gearbox. Replaced with ATF which made gear changes nice and smooth. I would go with what Opie oils have recommended.
There would have been a paper label on the right hand side of the gearbox stating what it was filled with, yellow label would be ATF.
No label left on my 1.9 of 1999 but ATF was confirmed when I drained the gearbox. Replaced with ATF which made gear changes nice and smooth. I would go with what Opie oils have recommended.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Points
- 231
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
Though ATF provides pressure and supply drive from the torque convertor in auto and some semi gearboxes it is at the end of the day basically a lubricant and lubes an auto box.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Points
- 231
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
@Tracy Dee I was a little surprised after speaking to Opie too but a little further digging (me being sceptical) has confirmed they're correct, I have ordered the Fuchs ATF 5005 to do mine.